Pizza Party!

In a previous essay, I mentioned the prevalence of various types of non-Catalan and non-Spanish cuisines that were available in Barcelona. Italian food in particular stood out for me. From the moment we arrived, and throughout my life, it’s always been a favorite. Pizza is probably the most well-known and well-loved Italian dishes. It’s popularity has been well-established in the United States as well as in many other countries. I’ve seen pizza offerings in Argentina, Japan, and Scotland but I’m pretty sure it would not be too difficult to find a pizza parlor in any other part of the world (except for Paris, which seemed to have fewer than I would have expected, yet they did have a few bistros specializing in “Istanbul Pizza”).

In Barcelona, pizza is ubiquitous. Perhaps it’s an outgrowth of the tourist industry since many visitors to town are here for just a day or two and are looking for a quick and familiar meal. Sadly, some pizza restaurants in the tourist districts seem less than top-notch. However, that is not indicative of the high quality pies that are easily found throughout town. There is some really good, even outstanding pizza, to be consumed here in Barcelona.

I should begin by stating my own prejudice regarding pizza. In my opinion, it is the one of the most ideal dishes, if not perfect unto itself. Pizza is highly versatile and can act as anything from the main course to dessert and can even be served for breakfast or brunch in addition to lunch and dinner. Yet, I’m by no means a snob when it comes to what type of crust, toppings, or sauces can go on a pizza. Thin, chewy, whole wheat, or flatbread crusts are fine with me. Any fruit, vegetable, meat, or cheese is fine (yes, I do like Hawaiian pizza, even though many consider it an abomination). Red sauce, white sauce, oil, bechamel or even chocolate sauce…feel free to bring it on. Not all at once, mind you, but in combinations that work together.

Nevertheless, when it comes to the more “standard” varieties of pizza, I can be more discerning. My standards aren’t exacting, exactly, but there are some immediate turn-offs for me when it comes to pizza: pre-shredded cheese, pre-packaged meats, drenching the toppings in olive oil; essentially cost-cutting and overall laziness. Other than that, I’ve had pizza from local joints in strip malls that would outclass supposed award winning creations from restaurants whose expertise lies elsewhere.

In Barcelona, we have found about a half dozen pizza restaurants without expending much effort. All of them are equally good, whether or not we dine there usually depends on if we’re in the neighborhood or when we last visited. There are more that we’d like to visit that are marked on my map as “Want to Go,” a list that just continues to grow. Yet with all these great choices for good pizza, it puzzles me that so many locals regularly decide to get pizza from a certain American pizza chain (who shall remain nameless) located a mere stone’s throw from our apartment. The restaurant is packed most every night, usually with teenagers or university students. Generally, they can be rowdy, and the management tolerates the noise until the wee hours of the night. It may be possible that this is due to the fact that other local restaurants refuse to put up with their behavior, which can get raucous at times. Regrettably, the customers leave behind a mess every night by the outside seating area. The local pigeon and seagull population, however, don’t seem to mind the feast provided for them each morning. At one point earlier this year, there appeared to be a crackdown, but it didn’t last very long. I suppose given the makeup of the majority of the clientele; the restaurant is probably one of the cheapest places to get a decent meal when you’re on a tight budget. Either that or the fact that it’s an American chain gives it a bit of a cachet.

One of our favorite neighborhood spots is Changui, a relaxed wine bar with a welcoming outdoor space that opened about a year ago. It specializes in tapas, Argentinian pastries and local, natural wines. Recently, to celebrate their one-year anniversary, they hosted a pizza party. Although pizza isn’t normally on their menu, their offerings were definitely top-notch along with everything else. In addition to the pizza, their usual selections and the music lent a block party atmosphere to what might have been just another usual weeknight. Yet, it’s remarkable how pizza played a central role in those festivities. A supposed simple, versatile everyday staple becomes the featured player and brings the neighborhood together in celebration. This is just one of many ways that the people of Barcelona find uncomplicated ways to come together over food. It’s the gathering of community that is important. And pizza, as well as being the “perfect food” just might be an ideal way to establish bonds with others and form relationships.

Eating Pizza at the Changui Pizza Party (Yes, Utensils Were Necessary!)

Anyone spending time in Barcelona should, in my opinion, seek out Catalan cuisine first and foremost. Nonetheless, don’t be afraid to venture beyond the tapas bars to try some of the more international offerings that add to the vibrant, cosmopolitan atmosphere of the city. Certainly, one shouldn’t dismiss a recommendation for a high quality pizza restaurant. Chances are, you’ll be in for a treat!